Types of Face Oils: Squalane, Jojoba, Rosehip, Marula and More

The main types of face oil are squalane, jojoba, rosehip, marula, argan, sunflower seed, olive and coconut, and they differ mostly in their fats. Light, stable squalane and wax-like jojoba suit almost every skin type, including oily and acne-prone skin. Rosehip and sunflower, which are rich in linoleic acid, suit dry and combination skin; richer, oleic-heavy marula and argan suit dry skin; olive and coconut are better kept off the face.

If you're weighing a particular bottle or a moisturizer built on one of these oils, you can scan its barcode or label with the ingredient scanner in Pori to check it against your skin type. It reads the formula; it doesn't diagnose skin conditions.

Below we explain what a face oil does and doesn't do, how each common oil compares, what the evidence on clogged pores actually shows, and how to use an oil without wasting it. This guide is based on published research and dermatology guidance; we did not test these oils on skin.

What does a face oil actually do?

A face oil softens skin and slows water loss. It doesn't add water. A 2017 review of moisturizers in Clinical Medicine & Research groups moisturizing ingredients into humectants that draw water in, emollients that smooth, and occlusives that seal water in. Plant oils work as emollients and, to a lesser degree, occlusives. That's why an oil on its own can leave dry, tight skin feeling soft but still thirsty.

The practical rule follows from that. Put water and humectants on first, from a hydrating serum, toner or moisturizer, then use the oil to hold them in. Cleveland Clinic gives the same advice for squalane, suggesting you layer it on top of lighter products such as serums or toners. For a deeper look at the three ingredient types, see our guide to the types of moisturizers.

Why do some oils help the skin barrier and others hurt it?

It comes down to the fatty acids. A 2017 review of plant oils in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences explains that linoleic acid has a direct role in maintaining the skin's water barrier, while oleic acid is detrimental to barrier function when applied over time. Oils high in linoleic acid tend to calm and repair; oils high in oleic acid feel richer but can loosen the barrier and help other ingredients penetrate.

The clearest human data comes from a study of 19 adults by Danby and colleagues. Four weeks of olive oil on the forearm significantly reduced the integrity of the outer skin layer and caused mild redness, in people with and without a history of eczema. Sunflower seed oil, used the same way on the other arm, preserved the barrier, caused no redness and improved hydration. The authors concluded that olive oil should be discouraged for dry skin. It's a small forearm study, but it's a useful reminder that "natural" doesn't mean gentle.

Types of face oils at a glance

Which face oils are the lightest?

Squalane is the safest first oil for most people. It's the hydrogenated, stable form of squalene, a lipid your own sebum contains. A dermatology review of moisturizers describes squalane as less prone to oxidation than squalene, odorless and noncomedogenic, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel reaffirmed in 2023 that it is safe as used in cosmetics. It feels almost dry on the skin, so it layers under sunscreen and makeup. Our full guide to squalane oil benefits covers sources and the squalene versus squalane spelling trap.

Jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax. A 2021 review in Polymers puts its wax content at about 98%, mainly wax esters, and notes its structural similarity with skin sebum, which may explain why it spreads easily and suits oily skin. Evidence for acne is limited. In an uncontrolled study of 194 people who used a clay and jojoba oil mask two to three times a week for six weeks, lesion counts fell by 54% on average, but there was no comparison group and the clay may have done much of the work. Treat jojoba as a well-tolerated moisturizer for oily skin. It won't replace an acne treatment.

Is rosehip oil good for your face?

For dry, dull or combination skin, often yes. Rosehip seed oil is one of the richest common sources of linoleic acid: the plant-oil review lists 35.9 to 54.8% linoleic acid and 16.6 to 26.5% alpha-linolenic acid. Linoleic acid matters for acne-prone skin too. In a small double-blind study, linoleic acid applied to mild acne reduced the size of microcomedones by almost 25% in a month, which suggests a linoleic-rich oil is less likely to make clogged pores worse than an oleic-rich one.

The scar claims are weaker. A 2023 review of rosehip oil for post-surgical scars found only two human trials and concluded there is insufficient evidence to recommend it for wounds. Rosehip's polyunsaturated fats also go rancid faster than saturated ones. Buy a small bottle, keep it cool and capped, and throw it out if it starts to smell like crayons or old nuts.

Marula, argan and other rich oils: who are they for?

Marula and argan are richer oils for dry skin. The best study on marula tested it in 20 healthy women: the oil was non-irritating, hydrated very dry skin, moisturized normal skin and had a measurable occlusive effect. The same study found it is 69% oleic acid, followed by palmitic acid, and its authors note that scientific studies supporting marula in cosmetics had been lacking. That oleic profile makes it comfortable on dry skin and a riskier bet if you break out.

Argan oil sits in between. The plant-oil review says it helps restore barrier function and the skin's ability to hold water, and that daily use has been shown to improve skin elasticity. Sunflower seed oil is the underrated option: it was the barrier-friendly oil in the Danby study and is common in fragrance-free moisturizers. Avocado oil and sweet almond oil are also rich, oleic-leaning oils that suit dry skin better than oily skin.

Should you put olive or coconut oil on your face?

We'd skip both on the face. Olive oil damaged the barrier in the Danby study, even in people without eczema. Coconut oil has better data than you might expect, but in a different setting: the plant-oil review describes a study in which virgin coconut oil reduced the severity of mild to moderate eczema in children. That says nothing about acne-prone facial skin, and coconut oil's heavy, solid texture makes it a poor first choice if you break out. On dry hands, elbows and legs it is a cheap, reasonable emollient.

Do face oils clog pores?

Some can, but the comedogenicity ratings you see online are a blunt tool. Draelos and DiNardo explain in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology that animal models were originally used to rate raw ingredients, on the assumption that finished products containing them would also clog pores, and dermatologists were given lists of substances to avoid. When the authors tested finished products on human skin, they concluded that finished products using comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic. Concentration, the rest of the formula and your own skin all matter.

A practical way to use that: if you're acne-prone, start with squalane or jojoba, or a linoleic-rich oil like rosehip, and introduce one new product at a time for a few weeks. Use only a few drops; a thicker layer adds grease without adding benefit. Our guides on breaking out after a new product and how to patch test explain how to tell a reaction from a coincidence. Mineral oil deserves a mention here too: the refined grades used in cosmetics soften skin and slow water loss, and its pore-clogging reputation comes mainly from old animal tests, as our mineral oil guide explains.

What about face oils with essential oils?

Many blended face oils add lavender, rose, citrus or other essential oils for scent. These are fragrance by another name and a common reason sensitive skin reacts. If your skin is reactive, pick a single-ingredient oil or a blend labeled fragrance-free, and read the last few lines of the ingredient list for linalool, limonene, geraniol and citronellol. Our article on fragrance and essential oils in skincare covers which ones cause the most trouble. Tea tree oil is a separate case. It's an essential oil sold for acne, it does little to moisturize, and it should always be diluted.

How do you use a face oil in your routine?

• At night: two to four drops pressed over your moisturizer, or mixed into it, on damp skin.
• In the morning: a single drop of a light oil such as squalane under sunscreen, or skip it. Rich oils can make sunscreen and makeup slide.
• Order: thinnest to thickest. Oil goes after water-based serums and usually after moisturizer; see our skincare routine order.
• With actives: an oil over a retinoid can make it feel gentler, which helps if you're peeling from retinol.
• For makeup removal: a cleansing oil is a different product with emulsifiers so it rinses off; see types of face cleansers.

If your skin is oily but tight, your skin may be dehydrated, and a gel moisturizer will do more than an oil. Our guide to oily but dehydrated skin explains the difference, and serum vs. moisturizer vs. essence shows where an oil fits among the other steps.