Peeling From Retinol: How to Get Through the Retinization Phase

Retinol peeling is a normal, temporary side effect while your skin adjusts, often called the retinization phase or the "retinol uglies." It usually shows up in the first few weeks as dryness, flaking, redness or mild stinging, and fades as skin adapts. To get through it, use retinol every other night or less, buffer it with moisturizer, and keep it away from the eyes and mouth.

This guide stays on the side-effect phase: how long the flaking tends to last, how the sandwich and buffer methods work, how to adjust frequency without losing progress, and the signs that mean you should stop. If you're still choosing a product or strength, start with our retinol for beginners guide and come back here once you've started.

Why does retinol make your skin peel?

Retinol peels because it speeds up skin cell turnover and, at first, irritates skin that isn't used to it. Cleveland Clinic lists redness, peeling, flaky or scaly skin, dryness, itching and burning among the usual side effects and calls them usually temporary. DermNet groups these effects under the name retinoid dermatitis: redness, peeling and dry skin. A review in Clinical Interventions in Aging describes the same "retinoid reaction" as itching, burning at the application site, redness and peeling.

The reaction depends on the dose. A 2022 review of topical anti-aging retinoids found that side effects are generally dose-dependent, and that lower concentrations caused fewer adverse effects while still producing measurable improvement. The type of retinoid matters too: the Clinical Interventions in Aging review notes the reaction is more common with tretinoin and tazarotene than with retinol, retinaldehyde or adapalene, and that retinol produces considerably less water loss, redness and scaling than prescription retinoic acid.

How long does retinol peeling last?

For most people, retinol flaking peaks in the first few weeks and then settles. The Clinical Interventions in Aging review says the retinoid reaction generally appears within the first few weeks of treatment, and cites a study in which skin accommodated to retinoid side effects within about two weeks. Cleveland Clinic says the side effects should gradually go away as your skin gets used to the treatment, without giving a fixed number of days.

In practice the timeline depends on the product, how often you use it and your skin. A rough guide:

If the flaking keeps going for several weeks at the same frequency without easing, the product may be too strong for you, or something else in your routine is adding to the irritation.

What is the retinol sandwich method?

The sandwich method means putting a layer of moisturizer on before and after your retinol, so the retinoid sits between two layers of cream. It's the most common way to soften the retinization phase.

1. Cleanse with a gentle, non-foaming cleanser and pat your face fully dry.
2. Apply a thin layer of a plain, fragrance-free moisturizer.
3. Apply your retinol in a thin layer, using the amount the label directs, dotted on the forehead, cheeks and chin and spread out. Skip the eyelids, the corners of the nose and the lip line.
4. Finish with a second layer of moisturizer, or a thicker cream on the driest areas.

Moisturizing is part of the standard advice for any retinoid. A dermatologist quoted by the AAD says starting slowly and using moisturizer helps head off irritation and the dark marks it can trigger, and the 2022 review recommends using moisturizers to keep the skin hydrated to avoid retinoid dermatitis. Cleveland Clinic suggests finishing your retinol routine with a noncomedogenic moisturizer.

Be realistic about the trade-off. Layers of moisturizer probably dilute how much retinol reaches your skin, which is the point during the adjustment phase. Once your skin tolerates it, you can drop the bottom layer and keep only the top one.

What does buffering retinol mean?

Buffering is the lighter version of the sandwich: you apply moisturizer first and retinol on top, or mix the retinol into a dab of moisturizer in your palm before applying. Either way, you lower the effective concentration on your skin for a while. Use buffering when the sandwich feels too heavy, or as a step down from the sandwich once the worst flaking has passed.

The product's base matters as much as the method. DermNet notes that among topical retinoid formulations, creams are the least irritating, and that irritation is more likely when a retinoid is applied near the eyes or lips. A retinol in a rich cream base may give you less trouble than the same strength in a light serum.

How often should you use retinol while your skin is peeling?

Keep using it less often instead of stopping completely, unless you have the warning signs below. Cleveland Clinic advises applying retinol only every other day for the first couple of weeks, and suggests using it every other day rather than every day as one way to manage redness and irritation. The AAD quotes a dermatologist recommending every other night to start, slowly building up, and notes that retinoids belong in your night routine.

If you're flaking badly, try these frequency tweaks in order:

• Drop one night. Going from every other night to every third night is often enough to stop the flaking spiral.
• Take a short break. Two to four retinol-free nights with only cleanser and moisturizer let the surface calm down. Then restart at the lower frequency.
• Step down in strength. If you started high, a lower concentration with fewer side effects is a reasonable trade, given that the 2022 review found lower concentrations still gave significant improvement.

Hold each new frequency for at least a week before changing it again, so you know which change made the difference.

What makes retinol peeling worse?

Most bad retinization phases have a second irritant in the routine. Common ones:

• Exfoliating at the same time. The AAD warns that exfoliating while you use retinoids, retinol or benzoyl peroxide may make dryness worse. Pause scrubs, peel pads and AHA or BHA toners until the flaking has stopped.
• Scrubbing the flakes off. It's tempting, especially before makeup, but rubbing off loose skin leaves the area raw. If flakes catch your foundation, see our tips on flaky skin under makeup instead.
• Harsh cleansers and hot water. Cleveland Clinic lists harsh soaps and over-exfoliating among the things that damage the skin barrier.
• Applying it near the eyes and mouth. DermNet notes irritation is more likely near the eyes or lips.
• Skipping sunscreen. DermNet lists sun sensitivity among retinoid side effects and recommends daily sunscreen and moisturizer. The AAD advises always using sun protection during the day while on retinoids.

Is it purging or irritation?

Peeling and purging are different things that can happen together. Peeling is surface dryness and flaking. Purging refers to small breakouts in areas where you usually get them, as faster turnover brings existing clogs to the surface. New pimples in places you never break out, or a rash with itchy bumps, point more toward irritation or a reaction to the product. Our guide to skin purging vs a breakout walks through the differences.

When does retinol peeling mean you should stop?

Stop retinol and let your skin recover if you notice:

• Burning or stinging that lasts long after application, or stinging from products that never bothered you before, which Cleveland Clinic lists as a sign of a damaged skin barrier.
• Swelling, hives or intense itching. The AAD's patch-testing advice is that if you develop a skin reaction such as red, itchy or swollen skin, gently wash the product off and don't use it again, and see a dermatologist if a severe reaction isn't relieved by cool compresses or petroleum jelly.
• Raw, cracked, oozing or crusted skin.
• Dark patches developing where skin has been irritated. A dermatologist quoted by the AAD notes that in skin of color, irritation can trigger dark marks known as hyperpigmentation.

Retinoids are not for pregnancy. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy, and Cleveland Clinic advises talking with your healthcare provider before using topical medication if you're pregnant. If you have eczema, be cautious too: DermNet notes topical retinoids can make eczema worse because of their drying effect.

Before starting again after a break, consider a patch test. The AAD suggests applying a product twice daily for seven to 10 days on a small area, such as the inner arm, and it notes that some ingredients, retinol among them, can irritate your skin, particularly if it's sensitive.

How can a selfie scan or ingredient scanner help during retinization?

The hardest part of the retinization phase is knowing whether you're improving. Flakes in the mirror look the same on day 10 as on day 4. An app like Pori gives you an overall skin score from a selfie, with a Hydration & Moisture and a Pores & Texture breakdown, and a before/after comparison, so you can see whether things are settling or getting worse as you change frequency. The Pro ingredient scanner checks a product's label or barcode and flags each ingredient as beneficial, use with caution or avoid for your skin type, which helps you spot a second retinoid or an acid hiding in a moisturizer you're using to buffer.

An app is not a diagnosis. If peeling comes with swelling, a spreading rash or raw skin, stop the product and see a dermatologist.