Bakuchiol vs Retinol: Does the 'Plant Retinol' Actually Work?

Bakuchiol is a plant compound that, in one small 12-week trial of 44 people, reduced wrinkles and dark spots about as much as retinol, with less stinging and scaling. It is not a retinoid and isn't converted to retinoic acid. The evidence is promising but thin: two key studies, neither with a placebo group, and no pregnancy data. It suits sensitive skin best.

Below is a close look at what those studies tested, where marketing runs ahead of them, who bakuchiol makes sense for, and how it fits with retinol, acne and pregnancy. This closes our retinoid series, after retinol for beginners, retinal vs retinol and tretinoin.

What is bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene phenol, a type of plant compound, found in the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia, also called babchi. The 2014 study that brought it into skincare describes it as having no structural resemblance to retinoids while acting as a functional analogue of retinol, meaning it affected many of the same genes in lab skin models. On an ingredient list it appears simply as "bakuchiol."

That distinction matters. Retinol, retinal and tretinoin all work by becoming or being retinoic acid, which a 2022 review describes as the biologically active form that binds retinoid receptors. Bakuchiol doesn't take that route, which may be part of why it was better tolerated in trials. It also means "plant retinol" is a marketing nickname; chemically, bakuchiol belongs to a different family.

Does bakuchiol actually work?

There is real but limited evidence that it does. Two studies carry most of the weight:

The 2019 trial is the one most brands quote, and it was well designed for its size. Participants were photographed at 0, 4, 8 and 12 weeks with an analytical imaging system, and a board-certified dermatologist, blinded to study group assignments, graded pigmentation and redness. The authors concluded that bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated.

What does the 2019 bakuchiol vs retinol study really show?

It shows that bakuchiol matched one retinol cream in a small group over three months, which is less than "as good as retinol" headlines suggest. Read the details before you take that line at face value:

• 44 people is small. Small trials can miss real differences between two products.
• No placebo arm. Both groups improved, but there was no untreated group to show how much improvement came from moisturizing, sunscreen or simply being in a study.
• Unequal dosing. Bakuchiol was applied twice daily and retinol once daily, both at 0.5%. That reflects how each is usually used, but it isn't a dose-for-dose comparison.
• Twelve weeks. Retinoid studies often run six months to a year; the longer-term picture for bakuchiol is unknown.
• One retinol formula. It doesn't tell you how bakuchiol compares with retinal or prescription tretinoin, which are stronger.

Even with those caveats, it is a randomized, double-blind trial, which is more than many trendy ingredients have. The fair reading is "promising, needs replication."

Bakuchiol vs retinol: which should you choose?

Choose retinol if your skin tolerates it and you want the ingredient with the deeper evidence base; choose bakuchiol if retinoids irritate you or you want to avoid them. Retinol has been studied far more, and a 2016 study found it produced similar changes in skin histology, gene and protein expression to retinoic acid, if smaller in magnitude.

The AAD notes that retinoids can increase sun sensitivity and that dermatologists recommend using them only at night, with sun protection during the day. Whatever you choose, daily sunscreen does more for photoaging than either one alone.

Who is bakuchiol best for?

Bakuchiol makes the most sense for people who want a gentle anti-aging step and can't, or would rather not, use a retinoid:

• Sensitive or easily irritated skin. The AAD says people with a lot of redness or inflammation, skin allergies or dryness may not be good candidates for retinoids. Bakuchiol's lower irritation in the trial is its main selling point.
• Darker skin tones worried about irritation marks. The AAD notes that in skin of color, irritation can trigger dark marks, so a gentler option is worth considering.
• People who tried retinol and gave up. If peeling made you quit, bakuchiol is a reasonable thing to try before going back.
• People who simply want fewer side effects and accept that the evidence is smaller.

Plant-derived doesn't mean reaction-free. Patch-test any new product on a small area for a few days before using it on your whole face.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?

Nobody knows for certain, because bakuchiol hasn't been studied in pregnancy. Neither of the main trials enrolled pregnant people, and the AAD's guide to acne treatment during pregnancy doesn't list it. What is clear is the case against retinoids: the AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy, and Cleveland Clinic says healthcare providers discourage the use of retinoids if you're pregnant and that anyone pregnant or breastfeeding should consult a provider.

So when bakuchiol is marketed as "pregnancy-safe," that rests on an absence of known harm. No study has tested it. Ask your obstetrician or dermatologist before using it. Our pregnancy-safe skincare routine covers ingredients the AAD does describe as safer, such as azelaic acid, which it says is thought to be safe to use during pregnancy.

Is bakuchiol good for acne?

We didn't find good clinical evidence for bakuchiol as an acne treatment, so treat acne claims with caution. The two studies above looked at signs of aging, not breakouts. For acne, retinoids with acne data, such as adapalene, have a much stronger record; see our adapalene guide. If you're pregnant and dealing with acne, the AAD's pregnancy page lists options like azelaic acid and limited benzoyl peroxide, used after checking with your doctor.

Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?

You can, but there's no good trial evidence that combining them works better than either alone. Products pairing the two are common, and the 2014 lab study's finding that the two affect similar gene expression is sometimes used to argue for layering them. That isn't the same as a clinical result. If you want to try it, introduce one at a time so you know which one your skin is reacting to, and keep retinol to the evening.

What does bakuchiol marketing overstate?

Most bakuchiol claims stretch a small evidence base. Watch for these:

• "Natural retinol" or "plant retinol." It isn't a retinol or any kind of retinoid; it behaves somewhat like one in lab tests.
• "Clinically proven as effective as retinol." One 44-person trial without a placebo group found similar results to one retinol cream.
• "Pregnancy-safe." Not studied in pregnancy.
• "Works for acne." We found no strong clinical data.
• Unstated concentration. The key trial used 0.5%. A product that hides its percentage, or lists bakuchiol near the end of a long ingredient list, may contain far less.

How can a selfie scan or ingredient scanner help?

With a gentle ingredient like bakuchiol, changes are slow, so a consistent record helps you decide after 12 weeks whether it earned a place. An app like Pori scores a selfie from 0 to 100 across areas including Pigmentation & Tone and Anti-aging & Elasticity, and its before/after view lines up your first and latest scans. Pori's ingredient scanner (Pro) reads a barcode or label photo and flags each ingredient as beneficial, use with caution or avoid for your skin type, which helps when you want to check whether a "plant retinol" serum also contains an actual retinoid.

An app is a progress log, not a diagnosis. If you're pregnant, have a skin condition or react to a product, check with a dermatologist or your doctor.