The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion Review: HPR vs Retinol

The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion is a cheap, creamy evening serum built on hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a retinoid ester the brand says is less irritating than retinol. It also contains a little retinol. It's a reasonable first retinoid for dry or easily irritated skin, but the human evidence for HPR on its own is thin, and the label doesn't say how much HPR is inside.

Before you buy, you can check its ingredient list against your own skin type by scanning the bottle or photographing the label with the ingredient scanner in Pori.

Below we cover what HPR is, what the studies on it do and don't show, how the 2% Emulsion differs from the 5% in Squalane, and who should pick it over a classic retinol. This is an ingredient-and-evidence review based on The Ordinary's published formula and the research literature, not a hands-on test. If you're new to retinoids in general, our retinol for beginners guide covers how to start.

What is The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion?

It's a water-based, lotion-textured serum for the evening Treat step. The Ordinary's product page calls it "a creamy serum," lists it for all skin types, and says it targets early signs of aging, textural irregularities and uneven tone.

Two details on the page are easy to miss. First, the brand doesn't explain what the "2%" measures, and it gives no concentration for HPR or any other ingredient. Second, the product is marketed as a retinol alternative, yet retinol appears in the ingredient list, right after HPR. So people who want to avoid retinol entirely should know it isn't retinol-free.

What is hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR)?

HPR is a synthetic ester of 9-cis-retinoic acid used in cosmetics. That's how researchers describe it in an Italian acne study of an HPR gel. Most over-the-counter retinoids, like retinol and retinyl esters, belong to the same family as prescription tretinoin, and the AAD lists tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene as the prescription topical retinoids, with retinol sold over the counter.

The appeal of HPR is stability and comfort. A Slovenian lab tested 16 retinoid derivatives in 12 commercial products over six months and found that most retinoids degraded, with losses of 0% to 80% after six months at 25°C, while HPR was the most stable of the retinoids studied. A related analysis by the same group found that measured retinoid content differed noticeably from the declared amount in several products, which is a reminder that a number on a label isn't a guarantee either way.

Does Granactive Retinoid work as well as retinol?

Nobody has shown that clearly in people. The Ordinary's page says HPR delivers "comparable visible results to retinol" and is "less likely to cause irritation," but it cites no study for either claim, and we couldn't find a published head-to-head trial of HPR alone against retinol in human skin.

What exists is smaller and more indirect:

• Combination products: a 2023 study tested a serum pairing HPR with retinyl propionate in 42 women for eight weeks and reported an 8.3% improvement in wrinkles and 14.5% to 22.6% gains in elasticity measures. In patch tests, that combination caused fewer reactions than retinol at the same concentration. Several authors work for the company behind the formula, and the result can't be credited to HPR alone.
• Acne gels: an open, uncontrolled study of 98 people using a gel with 0.1% HPR, 1% retinol and 2% papain once daily for 12 weeks found a 40.8% mean reduction in total lesions, with 15.3% reporting mild to moderate dryness, peeling, redness or burning. Again, that's a blend with retinol, and The Ordinary itself says its product is not a treatment for acne.
• Lab and animal work: a 2024 study comparing five retinoids found HPR effective in cell tests, though retinyl palmitate and retinyl propionate performed better in that model. Cell and mouse results don't translate directly to your face.

The fair reading is that HPR is a stable, probably gentler retinoid with plausible but not yet well-proven anti-aging effects. Retinol, by comparison, has decades of research behind it, which is why dermatology sources still use it as the over-the-counter reference point.

Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion vs 5% in Squalane: which is stronger?

The 5% in Squalane is the stronger, oil-based sibling, aimed at more advanced signs of aging. The Ordinary lists the 5% for "advanced signs of aging" and the 2% for "early signs of aging". Neither page explains what the percentages measure.

The squalane version suits dry skin that likes an oil texture and someone who has already used a gentle retinoid without trouble. If you prefer something that feels like a light lotion, or you have combination or oily skin, the emulsion is usually the easier fit. Our squalane guide explains why that oil tends to suit most skin types.

Is Granactive Retinoid good for beginners?

Yes, for many people, especially those with sensitive or dry skin. The Ordinary's own page for its entry-level Retinol 0.2% in Squalane suggests that people prone to sensitivity may prefer the Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion instead. That makes the emulsion the brand's gentlest retinoid step.

The usual beginner rules still apply. The AAD advises starting with the least intense retinoid you can find and using it every other night at first, building up slowly, and pairing it with moisturizer. Cleveland Clinic suggests applying retinol every other day for the first couple of weeks and expecting several weeks before you notice a change. The same caution makes sense for HPR, since The Ordinary doesn't give a frequency on the page.

1. Patch test first, as the brand recommends.
2. Start two or three evenings a week on clean, dry skin, a few drops for the whole face.
3. Follow with a plain moisturizer if your skin feels dry.
4. Wear broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning; the brand warns retinoids can increase UV sensitivity.
5. Move to nightly use only if your skin stays comfortable for a couple of weeks.

Who should pick it over a classic retinol?

Pick the Granactive emulsion if comfort matters more than proven strength. It makes sense for:

• People whose skin got red or flaky on retinol before and who want to try again more gently.
• Dry or sensitive skin, where the creamy base and lower irritation claim are the main draw.
• Anyone on a tight budget who wants a low-commitment first retinoid.

A classic retinol is the better choice if you want the ingredient with the deeper evidence base for fine lines and texture, and your skin tolerates it. If you've used HPR for months without irritation and want more, the logical steps are a stronger retinol or a retinaldehyde product; see retinal vs retinol. For acne, The Ordinary says this product isn't a treatment, so a dermatologist or an acne-specific retinoid such as adapalene is a better place to start.

What can go wrong, and who should avoid it?

Expect less irritation than with most retinols, but not zero. DermNet lists retinoid dermatitis (redness, peeling, dryness) as a common side effect of topical retinoids and notes they can make eczema worse. Cleveland Clinic notes that skin can look worse at first while it adjusts, which some people call a purge; our article on purging vs breakouts explains how to tell the difference.

• Pregnancy and breastfeeding: The Ordinary advises avoiding retinoid products, including this one. The AAD says retinoids should not be used during pregnancy.
• Layering: the brand says not to use it with other retinoids, copper peptides, direct acids or direct vitamin C in the same routine.
• Broken or inflamed skin: use only on unbroken skin. If you have eczema, rosacea or perioral dermatitis, check with a dermatologist before adding any retinoid.
• Storage: the brand wants it refrigerated after opening and finished within three months, which is short compared with most serums.

The verdict

At about $12, the Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion is an easy, low-risk way to see whether your skin tolerates a retinoid at all. Its strengths are a comfortable texture, a stable active and a brand-stated lower irritation profile. Its weaknesses are an unexplained "2%," an unstated HPR concentration, a retinol content the marketing glosses over, and human evidence that mostly comes from blends tested by the companies selling them. If you want a gentle start, it's a sensible buy. If you want the best-documented results, choose a well-made retinol and build up slowly.