Guide · Routines

Skincare Routine for Sensitive Skin: Ingredients, Fragrance-Free Picks and Patch Testing

Fewer products, no fragrance, mineral sunscreen and one new thing at a time: a calm routine for skin that stings easily.

By the Pori team7 min read
Key takeaways
  • Keep it to three steps: a gentle fragrance-free cleanser, a fragrance-free cream, and a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
  • Look for glycerin, ceramides, dimethicone and petrolatum; test fragrance, alcohol, menthol, camphor and strong acids carefully.
  • Choose “fragrance-free” over “unscented,” which may still contain masking fragrance; fragrance is second only to nickel as a cause of allergic contact dermatitis.
  • Patch test every new product on the inner arm twice a day for 7 to 10 days, and add only one product at a time.

A skincare routine for sensitive skin should be short: a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and in the morning a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both. Add only one new product at a time, and patch test each one on a small spot twice a day for 7 to 10 days before it goes on your face.

The rest of this guide covers what sensitive skin actually is, a morning and evening routine, which ingredients to look for and which to be careful with, why "fragrance-free" and "unscented" aren't the same, and exactly how to patch test.

What counts as sensitive skin?

Sensitive skin means your skin stings, burns, itches or tingles in response to things that shouldn't bother it, such as a mild cleanser, cold wind or a new moisturizer. An international expert group defined it in 2017 as unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, itching and tingling) in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke such sensations, which can't be explained by a skin disease. The skin can look normal or red, and the face is especially affected.

It's very common. A 2020 meta-analysis found that 71% of people reported sensitive skin to some degree, and 40% described it as moderately or very sensitive. Women reported it more often than men (45% vs 33%), and 64% reported some degree of facial sensitivity. The authors caution that questionnaire studies may overestimate it, but the takeaway holds: if your skin reacts easily, you have plenty of company.

Sensitive skin isn't a separate oil level. You can be oily and sensitive, or dry and sensitive, so pair this guide with your base type from how to find your skin type.

What is the best skincare routine for sensitive skin?

The best routine is the one with the fewest ingredients that still covers cleansing, moisturizing and sun protection. Every extra product is another chance for a reaction, and another suspect when one happens.

Morning

  1. Rinse or cleanse. Lukewarm water alone is often enough in the morning. If you use a cleanser, choose a gentle, fragrance-free, non-foaming one.
  2. Moisturize. A fragrance-free cream with glycerin or ceramides. In its rosacea skin-care tips, written for easily irritated skin, the AAD suggests choosing a cream instead of a lotion or gel.
  3. Sunscreen. Broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. For sensitive skin, the AAD recommends zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both, also called a mineral sunscreen.

Evening

  1. Cleanse gently. The AAD advises cleansing twice a day, very gently, with your fingertips, and rinsing with lukewarm water. Skip washcloths, sponges and brushes.
  2. Optional treatment. Only one, and only once your skin is calm. Niacinamide is a common first choice (see our niacinamide guide); strong acids and retinoids are best introduced slowly, if at all.
  3. Moisturize. The same cream as the morning, or a richer one if you're dry.
StepMorningEveningWhat to look for
CleanseWater or gentle cleanserGentle cleanser, fingertipsFragrance-free, soap-free, non-abrasive
TreatSkipOne product at mostIntroduced alone, after a patch test
MoisturizeCreamCreamFragrance-free, glycerin, ceramides, dimethicone
ProtectMineral SPF 30+NoneZinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide

If you're unsure how to layer an extra step, our skincare routine order guide explains it.

Which ingredients are best for sensitive skin?

Look for plain, well-studied moisturizing ingredients, and treat fragrance, alcohol and strong acids with caution.

Ingredients that usually suit sensitive skin

  • Glycerin and hyaluronic acid, humectants that draw water into the skin.
  • Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, the same lipids that make up the skin barrier. Cleveland Clinic calls them important ingredients in skin care products.
  • Dimethicone, petrolatum, mineral oil and shea butter, which the AAD lists among ingredients that help relieve dry skin.
  • Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as sunscreen filters.

Ingredients to be careful with

For sensitive, rosacea-prone skin, the AAD advises avoiding products that contain alcohol, camphor, fragrance, glycolic acid, lactic acid, menthol, sodium lauryl sulfate and urea. Some of these, like lactic acid and urea, are helpful for ordinary dry skin, so treat this as a list to test carefully. If a product with one of them stings, that's your answer.

Usually well toleratedTest carefully
GlycerinFragrance and "botanical" blends
CeramidesDenatured alcohol
DimethiconeMenthol and camphor
PetrolatumGlycolic and lactic acid
Zinc oxideSodium lauryl sulfate

Ingredient lists are hard to read at first. Our guide to reading skincare ingredient labels explains the order and the names to watch for.

Why choose fragrance-free skincare over unscented?

Because "unscented" can still contain fragrance. A product can smell of nothing because a masking fragrance covers the smell of its other ingredients, so the word describes the smell and says nothing about what's inside.

The AAD advises choosing products labeled "fragrance free" and being cautious with ones labeled "unscented" or full of plant-based botanical ingredients, since these may still contain fragrance-related ingredients. DermNet makes the same point: unscented products could still include masking fragrances, and "natural," "herbal" or "botanical" labels can hide unlisted fragrance.

Fragrance matters because it's a leading cause of allergic skin reactions. DermNet estimates fragrance allergy affects around 1% of adults and calls it second only to nickel as a cause of allergic contact dermatitis; around 10% of people who undergo patch testing turn out to have a fragrance allergy. For skin that already reacts easily, leaving fragrance out is the simplest way to remove one common suspect.

How do I patch test skincare?

Apply a small amount of the product to the same spot twice a day for 7 to 10 days, and use it on your face only if nothing happens. These are the AAD's steps for testing skin care products:

  1. Pick a spot. Choose a quarter-sized area where the product won't be rubbed or washed away, such as the inside of your arm.
  2. Use a normal amount. Apply as much, and as thickly, as you would in normal use.
  3. Repeat twice a day for 7 to 10 days. For wash-off products like cleansers, leave it on for five minutes, or as long as the instructions say, before rinsing.
  4. Watch for a reaction. Redness, itching or swelling means stop. Gently wash the product off as soon as possible and don't use it again; a cool compress or petroleum jelly can soothe the area.
  5. No reaction after 7 to 10 days? You can start using it.

Don't cut the window short, and count immediate stinging or burning on the test spot as a fail too. When a product passes, start on your face with a few uses a week before going daily, so a slow reaction is easier to catch.

How should I add new products without a flare-up?

One at a time, with at least the full patch-test window between each new product.

  • Change one thing per two weeks or so. If you add a serum and a moisturizer together and react, you won't know which caused it.
  • Start low. Use a new active every second or third night before going daily.
  • Keep a log. Note the product, the date and anything your skin did.
  • Wash gently. The AAD suggests limiting washing to twice a day and after sweating, which also limits how often you expose skin to cleanser.

A sample schedule: weeks 1 and 2, patch test the new product while your routine stays the same. Weeks 3 and 4, use it on your face every second or third day. From week 5, use it as directed if your skin is calm, and only then start testing the next product. It feels slow, but it means each change gets a fair trial and you always know what caused a reaction.

If your skin started stinging recently, after you began an acid or retinoid, the cause may be a weakened barrier. Our guide to a damaged skin barrier covers how to tell and how to fix it.

How can an ingredient scanner help sensitive skin?

Checking every label by hand is slow, especially in a store. Pori has an ingredient scanner (part of Pori Pro) that reads a product's barcode or label and flags each ingredient as beneficial, use with caution, or avoid for your skin type, scored by fixed rules over a curated ingredient list. It's a quick first filter before you buy, and you still patch test anything new. Pori's skin diary and before/after comparison also help you see whether a product made your skin calmer or redder over a few weeks.

An app is not a diagnosis. Sensitive skin can overlap with conditions such as rosacea, eczema or a contact allergy, and an app can't tell them apart.

When should I see a dermatologist about sensitive skin?

See a dermatologist when reactions are frequent, severe or unexplained. The AAD notes that if a reaction doesn't improve with a cool compress or petroleum jelly, you may need a dermatologist to manage your symptoms, and that if you can't find what's irritating you, a board-certified dermatologist may recommend formal patch testing to identify allergens. Persistent redness, flushing, scaling or itchy patches are also worth checking, since conditions like rosacea and eczema are treated differently from simple sensitivity.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best skincare routine for sensitive skin?

A gentle fragrance-free cleanser, a fragrance-free cream, and a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide each morning. Add any treatment products one at a time after a patch test.

How do I patch test a skincare product?

Apply a normal amount to a quarter-sized spot on your inner arm twice a day for 7 to 10 days. If you see redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and stop; if nothing happens, you can use it.

Is unscented the same as fragrance-free?

No. Unscented products may contain masking fragrance to cover other smells, so the AAD recommends choosing products labeled fragrance-free.

What ingredients should sensitive skin avoid?

For sensitive, rosacea-prone skin the AAD advises avoiding alcohol, camphor, fragrance, glycolic acid, lactic acid, menthol, sodium lauryl sulfate and urea. Not everyone reacts to all of them, so test carefully.

Is mineral sunscreen better for sensitive skin?

The AAD recommends sunscreens with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide or both for sensitive skin. Pick a broad-spectrum, fragrance-free one with SPF 30 or higher.

How common is sensitive skin?

Very common. A 2020 meta-analysis found that 71% of people report some degree of sensitive skin and about 40% describe their skin as moderately or very sensitive.

Sources

  1. Misery L et al. Definition of sensitive skin: an expert position paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta Derm Venereol, 2017 (PubMed)
  2. Chen W, Dai R, Li L. The prevalence of self-declared sensitive skin: a systematic review and meta-analysis. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol, 2020 (PubMed)
  3. American Academy of Dermatology: How to test skin care products
  4. American Academy of Dermatology: 7 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommend
  5. DermNet: Fragrance allergy
  6. American Academy of Dermatology: Face washing 101
  7. American Academy of Dermatology: Dermatologists' tips for relieving dry skin
  8. Cleveland Clinic: What is your skin barrier, and how do you repair it?

Pori is a wellness and skincare education app, not a medical device. This article is for general information and isn't medical advice. For anything that worries you, see a dermatologist.