How to Double Cleanse (and Who Actually Needs To)

To double cleanse, massage an oil or balm cleanser onto dry skin for about a minute to dissolve makeup and sunscreen, add a little water to emulsify it, rinse with lukewarm water, then wash again with a gentle water-based cleanser and pat dry. It's an evening step, and it mainly helps people who wear makeup or water-resistant sunscreen. Most people who don't can skip it.

Below is the technique step by step, what each cleanser actually removes, who benefits and who is better off washing once, and how cleansing oils, balms and micellar water compare as the first step.

What is double cleansing?

Double cleansing means washing your face twice in a row with two different kinds of cleanser. Cleveland Clinic describes it as cleansing first with an oil-based product, then following with a water-based cleanser. The logic is chemical: oil dissolves oil. Makeup, sebum and many sunscreen filters are oily or waxy, so an oil cleanser loosens them, while a water-based cleanser lifts off what water dissolves, such as sweat and dirt.

Cleveland Clinic notes that the idea has been around a long time, even though it only recently became a trend. Two cleansers is the whole idea. Extra steps, tools or a third wash aren't part of it.

How do you double cleanse, step by step?

The sequence below follows Cleveland Clinic's step-by-step guide and the American Academy of Dermatology's (AAD) face-washing tips.

1. Start with dry hands and a dry face. Most cleansing oils and balms work best on dry skin; water at this stage makes them emulsify too early. Check your product's label, since a few are made for damp skin.
2. Apply the oil or balm. Use one to two pumps of oil, or a scoop of balm about the size of an almond, and warm it between your palms.
3. Massage gently for 30 to 60 seconds. Use your fingertips in small circles over the whole face, including the hairline, jaw and the sides of the nose where sunscreen collects. Close your eyes and press lightly over the lashes to loosen mascara. There's no need to scrub.
4. Emulsify. Wet your fingertips and keep massaging. The oil turns milky as its emulsifiers mix with water, which is what lets it rinse clean instead of leaving a greasy film.
5. Rinse with lukewarm water. Cleveland Clinic warns that water that's too hot can dry out your skin.
6. Keep your skin damp and apply the second cleanser. A gentle water-based cleanser, gel, cream or light foam, massaged for about 30 seconds with fingertips. The AAD notes that a washcloth, mesh sponge or anything other than your fingertips can irritate your skin.
7. Rinse and pat dry with a soft towel, then move on to the rest of your evening routine while your skin is still slightly damp.

The whole thing takes two to three minutes. If your second cleanser leaves your face feeling tight or squeaky, it's too strong for a double cleanse; switch to a creamier, fragrance-free formula. For where cleansing sits in the rest of the evening, see our night skincare routine.

Is double cleansing necessary?

For most people, no. A dermatologist quoted by Cleveland Clinic puts it plainly: "For most people, washing your face once thoroughly with a gentle cleanser is more than adequate," and dermatologists worry more about overwashing than underwashing. The same article says double cleansing isn't a step most dermatologists recommend, because overwashing can lead to dryness, irritation and a weaker skin barrier.

The cases where it earns its place are specific: heavy, long-wear or waterproof makeup, and water-resistant sunscreen. A small study published in 2019 is the best evidence here. Researchers applied sunscreen to 20 volunteers and measured what was left after washing with water, a foaming cleanser or a cleansing oil. With an ordinary sunscreen, the foaming cleanser and the oil both removed it well. With a water-resistant sunscreen, about 37% remained after the foaming cleanser versus about 6% after the cleansing oil, and the authors concluded the oil may cause less irritation and dryness than the foaming cleanser.

That's the case for the first step. Water-resistant formulas are designed to cling to skin; the AAD recommends broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher for time outdoors, so plenty of people wearing exactly what dermatologists advise end up with a film that one wash doesn't fully lift.

Who should double cleanse, and who can skip it?

Cleveland Clinic's dermatologist sums up the dividing line: double cleansing can help people who wear makeup, especially waterproof makeup or waterproof sunscreen, and might not be needed if you go makeup-free.

Is double cleansing good for oily or acne-prone skin?

It can be, as long as both products are chosen well. Oily skin often wears more sunscreen and long-wear makeup, which are the very products that leave residue. The worry is that oil on oily skin will clog pores. Cleveland Clinic does caution that an oil-based cleanser can cause breakouts in acne-prone skin, especially if used alone, which is the strongest reason to always follow it with the second wash rather than leaving it on.

For acne-prone skin, the AAD's makeup guidance is practical: look for cleansers and removers labeled "oil-free," "won't clog pores" or "non-comedogenic," remove all makeup before bed, and avoid scrubbing, even while taking makeup off. If you use a medicated wash with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid, it can be your second cleanser. Keep the oil step gentle and short, and keep any scrubs and acids out of the same evening. Our oily skin routine covers what else to change if shine is the main issue.

A good first cleanser also means less rubbing, which matters for any easily irritated skin. A small trial in 35 women with mild facial eczema, run by researchers at a cleanser manufacturer, found that switching to a cleansing oil that needed less rubbing reduced dryness, scaling, redness and itching over four weeks. The study was small, uncontrolled and came from the company that makes the oil, and it looked at eczema rather than acne, so take it as a pointer: friction while removing makeup matters, and a product that dissolves makeup quickly means less of it.

Cleansing balm vs oil vs micellar water: which first cleanser is best?

All three can do the first step. The differences are texture, how cleanly they rinse, and how well they handle heavy products.

Oil versus balm is mostly preference: a balm is an oil cleanser in a thicker base, and both work by dissolving makeup and sunscreen. Micellar water is the gentler shortcut. Cleveland Clinic describes it as cleaning without stripping much of your skin's natural oils, and its dermatologist suggests that micellar water before a water-based cleanser is a great alternative to double cleansing. Cleveland Clinic's micellar water guide adds the limit: for very heavy or waterproof makeup, you may need to add another cleanser, which is where an oil earns its place. For specific picks, see our guides to the best cleansing oils and balms and the best micellar waters.

Should you double cleanse in the morning?

Usually not. Overnight your face collects a little sebum and whatever you applied at bedtime, which one gentle wash, or even just water for very dry skin, handles easily. The AAD recommends washing once in the morning and once at night, plus after heavy sweating, and doubling the morning wash adds friction and surfactant exposure with nothing to remove. Save the double cleanse for evenings when you've worn makeup or sunscreen, and skip it on bare-faced days.

How do you know if you're over-cleansing?

Your skin will usually tell you within a week or two. Common signs are tightness right after washing, stinging when you apply moisturizer, flaky patches around the nose and mouth, new redness, or an odd mix of dryness and extra oil. Cleveland Clinic lists dryness, irritation and breakdown of the skin barrier as the risks of overwashing.

If that happens, go back to one gentle cleanser at night for a couple of weeks, shorten the time each product sits on your skin, drop any foaming or medicated second cleanser to a few nights a week, and moisturize right after washing. Our guide to a damaged skin barrier walks through the recovery. Persistent burning, rash, or flaking that doesn't settle once you simplify is worth showing to a dermatologist, since it may be dermatitis or rosacea rather than simple overwashing.

Can a skin scan or ingredient scanner help with double cleansing?

Two things are hard to judge by eye: whether a new cleanser pair is quietly drying you out, and whether a cleanser's formula suits your skin type. A consistent photo record helps with the first. Pori, an iPhone app, takes a selfie and returns an overall skin score plus sub-scores including Hydration & Moisture and Pores & Texture, so you can scan before you start double cleansing and again a few weeks in, under the same light, and see whether hydration holds steady. For the second, Pori's ingredient scanner (part of Pro) reads a barcode or a photo of the label and flags each ingredient as beneficial, use with caution, or avoid for your skin type, which is a quick way to catch fragrance or harsh surfactants in a cleanser you're considering.

An app reads appearance and ingredient lists. It isn't a diagnosis, so see a dermatologist for irritation that doesn't settle, a rash, or anything that looks like a skin condition.