Skincare Routine for Teens: What You Actually Need (and What to Skip)

A good skincare routine for teens needs three products: a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every morning. If breakouts start, add one over-the-counter acne treatment, such as benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. Retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids sold for aging skin aren't needed at this age, and they can irritate young skin.

Below is what dermatologists actually recommend for teenage skin, a morning and night routine you can copy, how to pick an acne treatment, why the multi-step routines on social media are a poor fit for kids, and the signs that it's time to book a dermatologist. It's written for teens and for the parents helping them shop.

What skincare does a teenager actually need?

Very little. In an American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) release on tween and teen skincare, board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick recommends starting with a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day. She notes that harsh cleansing or scrubbing can irritate the skin, that added scents can trigger irritation or allergic reactions, and that for teens with dry or sensitive skin, washing once a day in the evening may be enough.

The same release makes the point most parents need to hear: consistency matters more than a long routine. A few products used every day beat a ten-step shelf that gets used now and then. Those three basics also cover the most common teen complaint, which is oil.

Why does skin get oilier during puberty?

Hormones. The AAD explains that during puberty, hormones called androgens increase the size of the skin's oil glands, and those glands start making more oil, which can clog pores. That's why the T-zone gets shiny, blackheads show up on the nose, and the first pimples tend to appear somewhere between the tweens and mid-teens. The AAD adds that nearly everyone develops at least a few breakouts during the teenage years, and that the risk of more severe acne is higher when a parent or close relative had severe acne that scarred.

So a few spots are normal. They're still worth treating early, because teenage acne affects more than skin (more on that below in the section for parents).

What's a simple skincare routine for 13 year olds and up?

Two short routines, about two minutes each, cover nearly every teen. The acne step is only for teens who are actually breaking out.

The AAD recommends washing acne-prone skin when you wake up, before bed, and when your face is sweaty, and warns that washing more than twice a day can irritate skin and make acne worse. Teens who want help remembering the steps can look at our roundup of skincare apps for teens.

What should a teen use for acne?

Start with one over-the-counter product that contains a proven acne ingredient. For teens, the AAD release says salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide may be helpful for acne, while still keeping skin hydrated and using sunscreen daily. In the US, the FDA's rules for over-the-counter acne products allow benzoyl peroxide at 2.5 to 10 percent and salicylic acid at 0.5 to 2 percent. Adapalene 0.1%, a retinoid sold as Differin Gel, is the third option; its drug facts label covers adults and children 12 and older, and says children under 12 should ask a doctor.

The "what it works on" column follows the AAD's guide to acne treatment at home, and the strengths come from the FDA rule and the Differin label above. A few rules make any of these work better:

• Start gentle. The AAD suggests starting benzoyl peroxide at 2.5% to avoid dry, irritated skin and burning, even though products go up to 10%. Our guide to using benzoyl peroxide covers the bleached-towel problem too.
• Cover the whole area. The AAD recommends a thin layer on all acne-prone skin, not just the spots you can see, to treat existing acne and prevent the next breakout.
• Give it time. With a treatment that works, the AAD says to expect some improvement in 4 to 6 weeks and clearing in two to three months or longer. Switching products every few days irritates skin and can cause new breakouts.
• Add, don't swap. If nothing has changed after 4 to 6 weeks, the AAD suggests adding a second product that targets a different cause of acne, for example adapalene alongside benzoyl peroxide.
• Follow the label. The Differin label warns that applying more than directed won't give faster results and may worsen irritation, and says to stop and ask a doctor if there's no improvement after 3 months of daily use. For more on this one, read our adapalene guide.

Do teens need retinol?

No, not for anti-aging. Dr. Garshick recommends that tweens and teens avoid products with retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids, because those target wrinkles, sun damage and uneven tone, which children don't have. She adds that young skin is thinner, more sensitive and more prone to irritation than adult skin, so these ingredients can cause redness, burning or peeling while giving no benefit.

There's one distinction worth making for parents. Adapalene is a retinoid too, but it's an acne medicine with a drug facts label and an age range, used for a specific problem. A dermatologist may also recommend a retinoid or salicylic acid for a teen with acne, the release notes, after looking at their skin. A retinol "anti-aging" serum bought because it trended online is a different thing, and it's the one to skip.

What's wrong with the "Sephora kids" routines?

They cost a lot, skip the one product that helps, and pile on irritants. Northwestern dermatology researchers who analyzed 100 TikTok skincare videos made by creators aged 7 to 18 found that routines used an average of 6 products and cost an average of $168 per regimen, and only 26.2% included sunscreen. The 25 most-viewed videos contained an average of 11, and up to 21, potentially irritating active ingredients. The authors concluded that these routines carry risks of irritation, allergic contact dermatitis and sun sensitivity, and offer little to no benefit for the kids they target.

If your tween wants a "routine," the three-product version above gives them one. It's age-appropriate, it's cheap, and it builds the daily sunscreen habit dermatologists stress for every age.

What should teens skip?

• Scrubs and rough tools. The AAD warns that scrubbing can irritate acne-prone skin, which worsens acne.
• Anti-aging actives. Retinol serums, vitamin C and exfoliating acids, for the reasons above.
• Fragranced products. Added scent is a common cause of irritation and allergic reactions, per the AAD release.
• Several new products at once. Introduce one new product at a time, and try a small amount on a patch of skin first if skin is sensitive.
• Toothpaste on pimples. The AAD says toothpaste contains abrasives, whiteners and flavors, none of which fight acne, and they can irritate skin.
• Picking and popping. The AAD notes that popping a pimple often worsens acne.

How can parents help a teen with acne?

Take it seriously and keep the pressure low. The AAD's advice for parents includes five points, and two of them surprise people:

1. Don't dismiss it. Telling a teen that acne will clear on its own can do harm, because many studies show acne tends to lower self-esteem, and treating it early can keep it from getting worse and scarring.
2. Go easy on reminders. In a small study the AAD cites, daily parental reminders backfired: teens felt nagged and used their treatment less. Keeping dermatology appointments helped more.
3. Reduce stress where you can. Stress can make acne flare.
4. Watch for signs of depression, such as sadness lasting two weeks or more or pulling away from friends and activities.
5. Let your teen see the dermatologist alone for part of the visit, so the doctor can learn what they want.

When should a teen see a dermatologist?

See a board-certified dermatologist if acne is leaving dark marks or scars, or if it hasn't improved after a few months of over-the-counter treatment. The AAD also recommends a visit when acne causes cysts and nodules, the deep blemishes that can scar, or when it simply makes your teen uncomfortable. If skin keeps reacting to gentle products, a dermatologist can work out why. Deep, painful acne needs prescription care, so our cystic acne guide explains what to expect.

How can a selfie scan or ingredient scanner help?

Acne changes slowly, and it's hard to tell week to week whether a new wash is helping. Taking the same selfie in the same light every week or two gives you something to compare. An app like Pori turns a selfie into an overall skin score with a breakdown that includes Pores & Texture and Hydration & Moisture, and saves before/after comparisons on the phone. Its ingredient scanner (a Pro feature) reads a barcode or a photo of the label and flags each ingredient as beneficial, use with caution or avoid for your skin type, which is handy when a teen brings home a product a creator recommended. Pori is an iPhone app; the download and first scan are free.

An app is not a diagnosis. It can't tell acne from another rash or decide whether a teen needs prescription treatment, so painful, scarring or stubborn breakouts belong with a dermatologist.

What changes after the teenage years?

Most of this routine carries straight into adulthood. Once acne is under control and skin has settled, the main additions in the next decade are an antioxidant serum and, for some people, a retinoid aimed at texture and early sun damage. Our skincare routine for your 20s picks up from here.