Dry Skin Myths: What Actually Helps and What Doesn't

Most dry skin myths fall apart once you know how moisturizers work. Drinking more water does little for dry skin unless you drink very little to begin with. Face oils soften skin but can't hold water in on their own. Gentle exfoliation can help, thicker isn't always better, and dry skin isn't only an older person's problem. What works is a humectant, an emollient and an occlusive used together.

Below, each myth gets a verdict and the evidence behind it. First, a quick primer on the three ways moisturizers work, because every verdict leans on it. If you want a step-by-step plan instead, see our dry skin routine.

How do moisturizers actually work?

Moisturizers work in three ways: humectants pull water into the outer layer of skin, emollients fill the gaps between skin cells to smooth and soften it, and occlusives form a film that slows water evaporating. Most good moisturizers combine all three, and a 2017 review of moisturizers notes that pairing occlusives with humectants improves the skin's water-holding capacity, and that glycerol combined with occlusives relieves dryness more than either alone.

The strength of occlusives varies a lot. According to a 2016 dermatology review, petrolatum at a concentration of at least 5% reduces water loss through the skin by more than 98%, while lanolin, mineral oil and silicones reduce it by only 20 to 30%. The same review calls glycerol the most effective humectant and describes humectants as a double-edged weapon when used alone, since the water they attract can be lost to dry air. Keep those three roles in mind as we go through the myths.

Myth summary: what helps and what doesn't

Does drinking water help dry skin?

Only a little, and mainly if you weren't drinking much to begin with. A 2018 systematic review of studies on fluid intake and skin found just six that met its criteria and judged the overall evidence weak in both quantity and quality. Setting those limits aside, extra water was linked to a slight increase in hydration of the outer layer, particularly in people with lower prior water intake. The authors concluded that more research is needed to know whether drinking more actually reduces signs of dry skin.

Verdict: drink enough to feel well, but don't expect it to fix flaky skin. Dry skin is mostly a problem of water escaping from the surface, which is what topical moisturizers address. For the difference between that and a temporary lack of water, see our guide to dry vs dehydrated skin.

Do oils moisturize dry skin?

Partly. Plant oils act mainly as emollients, with some occlusive effect, so they soften skin and reduce roughness. What they don't do is attract water. A face oil applied to dry skin with nothing else gives you a smooth surface over an outer layer that may still be short on water.

The type of oil also matters. A 2018 review of natural oils for barrier repair found that oils with a higher ratio of linoleic acid to oleic acid have better barrier repair potential, while oils high in oleic acid may harm barrier function. In a small randomized study in adults, applying olive oil twice daily for four weeks significantly reduced the integrity of the outer skin layer and caused mild redness, whereas sunflower seed oil preserved it and improved hydration. The authors concluded that the findings challenge the belief that all natural oils are good for skin.

Verdict: an oil can be a useful last step, pressed over a moisturizer that contains a humectant such as glycerin. It works poorly as your only product. The AAD's list of helpful ingredients for dry skin includes jojoba oil alongside dimethicone, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, lanolin, mineral oil, petrolatum and shea butter, in a cream or ointment. For a lightweight option, our guide to glycerin in skincare explains why that one humectant does so much.

Should dry skin be exfoliated?

Yes, gently and not too often. The visible signs of dry skin appear when dead skin cells pile up on the surface of a water-starved outer layer, and a mild chemical exfoliant can help clear them.

The AAD's exfoliation guidance says people with dry, sensitive or acne-prone skin may prefer just a washcloth and a mild chemical exfoliator, because mechanical exfoliation such as scrubs can be too irritating. It advises applying moisturizer immediately after exfoliating, since exfoliating can be drying, and warns against over-exfoliating, which can leave skin red and irritated. The 2016 moisturizer review notes that alpha hydroxy acids are effective in treating dry skin and that lactic acid, particularly the L-isomer, stimulates ceramide production, which supports the barrier.

Verdict: a gentle acid used sparingly can help dry skin; the AAD notes that the more aggressive the exfoliation, the less often it needs to be done. Skip it if your skin is cracked, stinging or raw, and avoid exfoliating at the same time as retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, which the AAD says can worsen dry skin when combined with exfoliation. Our guide to lactic acid for dry skin covers strengths and how to start.

Is a thicker cream always better for dry skin?

Partly true. Heavier textures usually hold more water in, but the ingredients and how you apply them matter more than thickness alone.

The AAD recommends an ointment or cream rather than a lotion for dry skin, because ointments and creams add more moisture and are more effective. Petrolatum, the most effective classic occlusive, also sits at the heavy end. So for very dry hands, lips or patches on the body, thicker generally does work better.

The face is more complicated. Heavy occlusives can feel greasy, and the 2017 review lists folliculitis from mineral oil and acne-like eruptions among the possible downsides of occlusive moisturizers. A thick cream with no humectant also does less than a medium-weight one that combines glycerin or hyaluronic acid with an occlusive. If you're acne-prone and worried about heavy products, see our guide to petrolatum and slugging.

Timing matters as much as texture. The AAD advises applying moisturizer while skin is still damp after a shower or bath and reapplying several times a day when skin feels dry. Verdict: pick the richest texture your skin tolerates, apply it to damp skin, and use enough of it.

Do only older people get dry skin?

No. Age is a big risk factor, but anyone can develop dry skin. The AAD notes that by age 60 nearly everyone has dry skin, and that by your 40s the amount of sebum your body makes drops dramatically.

The same AAD page lists many risk factors that have nothing to do with age:

• deodorant soaps and harsh cleaning products that strip oils and fats from skin;
• long, hot showers and living in a cold, dry place;
• wet work, such as hairdressing, nursing, cooking and cleaning;
• medications including statins and diuretics;
• smoking;
• skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis, and medical conditions such as diabetes, thyroid disease and kidney disease.

Verdict: a 20-year-old who takes long hot showers in a heated apartment can have drier skin than a 50-year-old with gentler habits. Dry skin at any age that cracks, bleeds or itches badly is worth a dermatologist's look, since it can signal eczema or another condition.

Do hot showers dry out your skin?

Yes. The AAD lists long, hot showers among the everyday causes of dry skin, alongside harsh soaps and cold, dry climates. Its tips for relief start with the bathroom: limit baths and showers to five to ten minutes using warm water, close the door to keep the air humid, pat dry gently, and put on a fragrance-free moisturizer right away.

Verdict: keep showers short and warm. A hot shower now and then won't ruin your skin, but a long, hot one every day in winter is a likely reason skin feels tight afterward.

Is "unscented" the same as fragrance-free?

No. The AAD explains that a product labeled "unscented" can contain chemicals that neutralize or hide the odors of other ingredients, and those chemicals can irritate dry, sensitive skin. Dermatologists recommend products labeled "fragrance-free" instead.

Verdict: read the label, and if you have dry skin that stings easily, choose fragrance-free cleansers and moisturizers.

How can a selfie skin scan help?

Dry skin myths are hard to test on yourself because changes are slow and hard to see in a mirror. A consistent photo record lets you check whether a change, such as shorter showers or a new cream, actually made a difference. Pori, our iPhone app, takes a selfie and returns an overall skin score from 0 to 100 with a Hydration & Moisture reading, and its skin diary lets you log water intake, sleep, stress and diet next to each scan, so you can see for yourself whether drinking more water moved anything. The Pro ingredient scanner flags each ingredient on a label as beneficial, use with caution or avoid for your skin type.

An app is not a diagnosis: it tracks appearance and doesn't diagnose eczema, psoriasis or any other cause of dry skin. See a dermatologist if dryness comes with cracking, bleeding, a rash or itching that disturbs your sleep.